K.V.P. Singh et al., "Anthropometric Study by Diagonising and Antagonizing the Feel Factor of 'Ideal Fabric' with 'Reference Fabric' for Frugal Engineering of Foundation Garments", in Proc. of 5th Int. Conf. on 3D Body Scanning Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 2014, pp. 414-421, doi:10.15221/14.414.
Anthropometric Study by Diagonising and Antagonizing the Feel Factor of 'Ideal Fabric' with 'Reference Fabric' for Frugal Engineering of Foundation Garments
K.V.P. Singh 1, A. Chatterjee 1, A. Das 2, Raul Fangueiro 3
1 Department of Textile Technology NIT Jalandhar, Punjab, India;
2 Department of Textile Technology IIT Delhi, India;
3 Department of Textile Engineering University of MINHO, Portugal
An attempt has been made to develop DREF III friction spun yarn after structural modifications with an objective to analyze its feasibility for apparel end use by diagnosing its quantified reduction in harshness. This harsh feel is due to the wrapper fibres of sheath which wrap the core during yarn formation (to give adequate strength). Therefore, removal of sheath is being sought by incorporating water soluble PVA fibres (Poly Vinyl Alcohol), without compromising the fundamental 'quality requirements of fabric'.
An independent study is carried out to develop a regression model, for simultaneous optimization of the desirability of physiological comfort and handle related properties of a knitted fabric, made up of the modified friction spun yarn, with pre-defined constraints in desired atmospheric conditions for specific end-use and comparing it with knitted fabric made up of conventional friction spun yarn named as 'Reference fabric'. To optimize the desirability of value added garment, response surface methodology is used as a tool to develop a mathematical model.
In this work, 'Physiological Control System' (PCS) of both comfort & handle is being upgraded to 'Engineering Control System' (ECS) by conversion of conceptual model to a mathematical model. Optimizing the fabric handle properties is based on the basic concept of neuroscience; artificial neuron model; physiological control system & engineering control system. Re-optimization of both comfort and handle by reverse engineering process is done to identify the best sample with maximum overall desirability termed as an 'Ideal Fabric' to achieve value added quality garment. 'Ideal Fabric' is identified as per the synergistic target & goal i.e. which satisfies & saddles both the parameters of comfort and handle in a compromise zone either as per the functionality of frugal engineering or by concurrent engineering.
Optimization & quantification of the responses in good zone of FAST fabric finger prints with maximum enhanced physiological comfort; to achieve a unique resultant value in a compromise zone known as an 'Overall Desirability'; as per engineering control system by developing a 'Feed Forward Back-Propagating Mathematical Model' with 'Artificial Neural Networks' (ANNs), also called cloudburst technology or parallel distributed processing systems (PDPs) and connectionist system, are intended for modeling the organizational principles of the central nervous system. Simulation and achievement of 'Ideal fabric' in terms of simultaneously re-optimized physiological comfort and handle properties in a compromise zone, for rapid prototyping of garment.
Indexes are used to calculate comfort for summer wear i.e. TWCI (Total wear comfort index); TPCI (Thermo-physiological comfort index); Gagge et al produced comfort sensation scale with 43 points; CALM (Comfort affect labeled magnitude) scale is also used; KVP Singh et al. quantified and optimized the overall desirability of physiological comfort and handle to achieve value added garment.
Anthropometric study is being done with diagnostic case study by comparing the 'Feel Factor' of 'Ideal fabric' with 'Reference fabric' and quantifying its reduction in harshness assuming body metabolism and microclimate as constant and stationary respectively as biologically inspired cloud computing capabilities of the ANN allows the cognitive and sensory task, as per database management, to be performed more easily and more satisfactorily than with conventional serial processors.
Antagonistic case study of 'Feel Factor' of 'Ideal fabric' with 'Reference fabric' will further be applied by using anthropometry with NX 16 3D body scanner (scheduled and controlled automated network system) on a digitized 3D model of human body to assist the spatial analysis of clothing appearance , body measurement , garment fit and for amity multitasking or rapid prototyping of apparels and medical textiles.
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