J. Cools et al., "The Use of 3D Anthropometric Data for Morphotype Analysis to Improve Fit and Grading Techniques - The Results", in Proc. of 5th Int. Conf. on 3D Body Scanning Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 2014, pp. 46-54, doi:10.15221/14.046.
The Use of 3D Anthropometric Data for Morphotype Analysis to Improve Fit and Grading Techniques - The Results
Joris Cools 1, Alexandra De Raeve 1, Peter van Ransbeeck 2, Simona Vasile 1, Benjamin Vandersmissen 2, Mathias Vermeulen 2
1 University College Ghent, Faculty of Science and Nature, Department of Fashion, Textile and Wood Technology, Gent, Belgium;
2 University College Ghent, Faculty of Science and Nature, Department of Mechatronics, Gent, Belgium
Today, apparel companies are able to offer well-fitting clothing to only 30 to 40% of their clients. This is due to body measurement tables which have not been updated in the last 25 years.
With the financial support of the Agency for Innovation through Science and Technology (IWT), over the last two years University College Ghent carried out a measurement campaign. The measurements and body shapes of the Belgian population were mapped using high-tech 3D body scanners . The results of this campaign led to defining new body measurement tables for women in four age categories and body measurement tables for men in three age categories.
Today, the construction of basic patterns and grading to other sizes is based solely on 1D body dimensions. The grading is proportional or rational, but never taking into account the body proportions. The last decade, several European countries have executed a 3D scanning campaign to depict their population, but these 3D data are often not accessible to the garment manufacturers. The industry does not have the necessary knowledge and skills to work with 3D measurements. In order to reduce the number of prototypes, time-to-market and thus money, many companies are developing software for checking fit, fabric drape and proportions on virtual mannequins in a virtual fitting room. Together with the new body measurement tables, University College Ghent defined for each size in each body measurement table a body model (avatar) which can be used as a virtual mannequin for fitting.
The importance of a proper fit and adequate sizing of clothing are the central themes in this paper.
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