S. P. Ashdown et al., "Research in Body/Garment Relationships", in Proc. of 1st Int. Conf. on 3D Body Scanning Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 2010, pp. 96-106, http://dx.doi.org/10.15221/10.096.
Research in Body/Garment Relationships
Susan P. ASHDOWN 1, Catherine DEVINE 1, Paul D. ERICKSON 2
1 Department of Fiber Science & Apparel Design, Cornell University, Ithaca (NY), USA;
2 Department of Learning Strategies, Cornell University, Ithaca (NY), USA
Apparel fit is a complex concept, involving cultural, individual and functional aspects of the relationship of clothing to the body. Variations in body sizes, shapes, proportions and postures coupled with style, function and material variations unite to complicate the process of measuring fit effectively. Methods of analyzing or quantifying fit generally involve subjective assessment, by the wearer or by an expert, in fit or wear tests. Few methods of objectively measuring clothing fit exist. In this paper we describe a method of quantifying the fit of clothing from 3D scans. We create 12 skirts made from a variety of materials in two different styles, fitted to a dress form. The dress form is scanned, and then each skirt is scanned on the dress form. Merging the scan of the dress form with each of the skirt scans provides 3D files from which the gap between the garments and the form can be quantified. Cross sections are taken from each set of merged scans at 10mm increments from waist to hem. Radial measures from the garment cross sections to the dress form cross section are used to analyze the differences in fit among the skirts. Results show that the measured differences in fit among the skirt models are consistent with the fabric and style properties, both in the distances of the garments from the body and in the variations in the configurations of fabric folds on the body. The stiffness of the fabric, weave variations, grainline, and the length variations of the styles affected the fit of the skirts.
Apparel fit, fabric drape, cross sections, radial measures
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